Enduring Legacy of Timeless Sarees: Tracing Their Journey Through Generations

People across the globe are no stranger to elegant sarees. From Alia Bhatt’s floral saree at the Met Gala to Aishwarya Rai’s golden moment at the Cannes Film Festival, sarees have taken the limelight globally and designers across the world are experimenting with the ethnic ensemble. With variations like pre-stitched sarees, the humble ensemble is available in various forms that blend the elegant traditional silhouette with Western fashion influences. Sarees today range from five to nine yards and are offered in a variety of colours, prints, and fabrics. 

However, what we know as bespoke works of art today were once simple woven fabrics for everyday wear. The elegant ensemble has witnessed a significant transformation to become the elaborate, contemporary counterpart we know and love. Its origin story was found in ruins of the Indus Valley Civilization (2200 and 1800 BCE) in northwest South Asia. Unstitched clothes were used by women as well as men during this time, while modern day blouses came much later. Are you curious to learn more? This in-depth exploration of the history of sarees will provide a better understanding of the attire, its significance throughout history, and handloom sarees to buy.  

• Early Beginnings & Evolution 

The process of weaving cotton led to the invention of sarees. It is estimated that cotton was initially cultivated in India around 3000 BCE. Cotton fibres were then woven and dyed with naturally occurring substances such as lac, turmeric, and indigo. According to some theories, the word “saree” originated from the term “sattika” as it is found in Buddhist and Jain texts as a reference to a three-piece ensemble. Buddhist Pali texts and Sanskrit writing from the sixth century BC also make similar references. 

Humans first wrapped unstitched cloth around the waist, which evolved into modern drapes as Indian ladies adopted new draping patterns inspired by the Aryans, Greeks, Persians, and Mughals. Indian artists also perfected the technique of encrusting fabrics with pearls and other gemstones during this period. The term “blouse” is thought to have originated from the kanchuki, a garment worn by women across their breasts that appears in numerous epics. Fun fact: Numerous ancient texts that refer to ‘cholis’ also indicate that this draped clothing influenced the creation of contemporary lehengas. 

• Handlooms & Traditional Embroidery

Handlooms – which have been around since the Indus Valley Civilization – are used to weave textiles without electricity. With the advent of industrialisation under British rule, machine-made textiles became widely used in India. However, throughout the fight for independence, handlooms acquired favour once more. The picture of Mahatma Gandhi utilising the spinning wheel came to represent both the country’s identity and its ability to help rural economies. Even now, the craft is still practised, and generations of people have learned it.

Handlooms and weaving gave rise to traditional printing and stitching methods, including embroidery. Before we had elaborate embroidery with metallic threads, beads, and pearls, there were simple designs created on textiles with colourful yarn. The Vedas, which date back to the fifth century BC, refer to it. Hand-painting techniques like Kalamkari, resist tie-dye fabrics such as Bandhani and Leheriya, and mud printing methods Dabu also proof of the growing textile art across regions in India. These methods have distinct features from the regions they were developed in, and the sarees made using the various techniques highlight the unique art and culture of this diverse nation.  

Types Of Traditional Sarees 

1. Kanjeevaram: The holy grail of occasion wear and wedding attire, Kanjeevaram sarees originated in the Tamil Nadu district of Kanchipuram. The gold weave and elegant motifs make them a must-have for every bridal trousseau. 
2. Banarsi: Woven using fine silk fabric and gold or silver metallic threads, Banarasi sarees feature delicate floral embroidery. They were made for Varanasi royals in the past and still have a regal air to them.
3. Khadi: Khadi, which Mahatma Gandhi championed throughout the independence movement, is hand-spun and weaved using natural cotton fibres on a charkha. Since they keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer, khadi sarees are suitable for a variety of weather conditions. 
4. Bandhani: Gujarat and Rajasthan are known for their characteristic Bandhej or Bandhani sarees, which are made utilising ancient Indian resist tie-dying processes. One dot or up to seven dots can be used to make the designs.
5. Maheshwari: Maheshwari sarees are mostly created on looms buried in the ground, or pit looms. They can be made of wool, silk, or cotton. Its reversible border, which usually has five stripes, is what makes it unique.

Conclusion

Handlooms as well as handwoven sarees have been developed by generations of textile artists with a deep connection to the cultural history of India. Every handloom saree has a rich background and narrates a tale from bygone eras. Even now, these sarees are extremely sought-after and an essential addition to any wardrobe. The saree can be styled for both traditional and contemporary occasions by pairing them with different jewellery, bags, and footwear.